[DIARIES] 20141223 Day 7 Guangzhou & Zhuhai - Liwan, Yuexiu, Gongbei

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Day 7 - 23 Dec 2014


Third day in Guangzhou with so much more to be discovered yet so little time left. I have been travelling very light ever since SZ with only my waist camera bag and a small backpack due to fatigue. While looking for a place for breakfast, I passed by the Liwan Lake Garden which is nearby to my hotel and decided to take a detour since I'm not that hungry yet.

The park is very crowded especially with the elderly citizen doing their routine morning walk around the lake. The morning weather was kinda gloomy with very calm lake water which gives a very nice reflection.


I exit the park at the east entrance and walk towards the north, heading to my first destination for the day. I find it very enjoyable to walk along the streets of Guangzhou, probably with its wide pathway and shed by big trees, or probably just the weather.


Along the way, I noticed a temple at the side of the road and decided to detour again.


The temple known as RenWei Temple 仁威庙 has a history that spans almost to a thousand year ago where it was built in the year 1024. After numerous reconstruction and restoration, it has became what it is today.


The temple worships a Taoist God known as ZhenWu Ti 真武帝 and is one of the popular temples around Guangzhou with constant visits from devotees. 


What's more interesting is the architecture of this ancient temple with rich presence of culture and art embedded within. The picture above is centre praying hall.


Even the old grey bricks at the both sides of the walls forms an interesting symmetry picture.


Lastly is the detailed carvings of the wood beams, painted in gold. Describing the different folk tales about God or immortals.


A small stall at the side of the temple selling joss sticks and praying materials.


Took a sneak peak at the back alley where a local wet market is located. Picture above is bags of dried pig skin which is used in various delicacies.


I left the temple, walking towards my next destination. Passed by a small stall at the side of the road selling Taiwanese street food as well as some cakes and buns.


I was particular interested with the millstone, grinding fresh black sesame paste. The owner saw I took a photo and asked me whether I would like to try, emphasizing it's very delicious and fresh.


I politely asked for a portion of black sesame paste and tried it. It's not as thick as I expected it to be as those I had in my place generally is darker and thicker. It is slightly on the sweet side as well. No complains and good for an energy boost in the morning.


Along the way I spotted something interesting. Notice the English translation of signboard and read it in Malay? Yes, Babi Buns.


Traffic police diverting the traffic early in the morning. Notice there's one more at the opposite side of the road, diverting the human traffic.


After walking about 20 minutes from the RenWei Temple and a short stop for the black sesame paste. I arrived at the Chen Clan Monastery 陈家祠. 


The Chen family was a very influential family back in the old times and this monastery, or academy was built as a shelter and for ancestral worshipping, catering the Guangdong province.

Read more about Chen Clan Monastery in my separate post:


The Chen Clan monastery is located towards the end of ZhongShanBa road with a huge square and a magnificent building with traditional Chinese architectural. The monastery is also known as the Chen Academy. Entrance is not free and is chargeable for RMB10 per pax.


The monastery, or mansion is very wide and huge and my lens can barely fit from end to end. Once stepped into the compound, I was overwhelmed by the artwork of the stone carvings on the walls and roofs of the mansion.


Just look at the details of the stone carvings on the roof ridge with carvings of plants, animals, immortals etc.


Zoomed in for details and you will see the sign of ageing of these carvings, trying to withstand the pounding of rain and wind.


The monastery was very well maintained after restoring works with nice array of grey bricks. There are details to be notice everywhere in this house, even at the roof of passage ways.


The middle of the house is the typical Chinese garden of Chinese architecture. However the trees and plants here are "boring" in comparison to the architecture. 


There are some exhibits in the halls of the monastery, mostly describing how was lifestyle and history of the Chen Clan Monastery back then in the older days.


The other side of the hall has souvenirs and more exhibits, especially some ivory carvings for sale that don't come cheap. It puzzles me how these ivory carvings are related to the monastery, and furthermore, is ivory carvings in China legal? Nevertheless, I'm still amazed by the artworks of the masters.


The backyard is also kinda boring with nothing interesting, except for some plants and trees, and a bronze statue.


The main hall of the monastery, where the ancestral signs are located.


Then main entrance of the Chen Clan Monastery. If you are a fan of traditional Chinese architectural, or your surname is of Chen/Tan/Chin, then probably you will find this place interesting, else there's nothing much to see other than it's historical value. For the experience, I told myself.

It's about noon and I head back to my hotel to check out and requested to keep my luggages at the registration desk to be collected later which the reception generously agreed.


I then took a bus straight to the hip place of Guangzhou, i.e. ShangXiaJiu Pedestrian Street, which is equivalent to our Bukit Bintang Golden Triangle in Malaysia. The bus ride took me through some interesting streets as I can see the transition of the Chinese style architecture to more European style of building along the way.

Read more in detail about ShangXiaJiu Pedestrian Street in a separate post:


The pedestrian street is a heaven for street food and shopping, where everything in Guangzhou is gathered here and you can shop in one go. The big signboard of Nicholas Tse is surely eye catchy.


President Obama giving a speech a ShangXiaJiu Square, no, I mean news showing Obama..

There are a lot of activities going on around the square, which is the main spot for the stretch of the pedestrian street.


Noticed the contrast between the European style building but with Chinese signboard? This whole area will transformed into a lively neon light street in the evening but unfortunately I can't stay until then.


From the cheap, to the luxury, you sure be able to find something here in ShangXiaJiu Pedestrian Street.


There's also this old cinema located towards the end of the street, too bad I don't have the luxury of time to spend some time for a movie this time.


The locals recommended this Guangzhou Restaurant when I asked what's good to eat around Guangzhou. After studying a bit more about the history of this restaurant, it became obvious why the locals love to dine here.

Read more in detail about Guangzhou Restaurant in a separate post:


The restaurant is separated into normal ala carte Cantonese cuisine floor and dim sum floor. I head to the dim sum floor to try what's the real Canton style dim sum. My oh my the food here is really gooding and worth the price paid despite being on the upper scale of the level. To read more about what's good, just hit the link I posted previously.


I did my research before I came and knew that there's a very unique catholic cathedral somewhere nearby the pedestrian street. After loaded my tummy with delicious dim sum, I continue my journey towards the cathedral, even thou my feet is already dragging me.


Interesting pickles stall by the road side, selling even Kiwi pickles. Oh by the way, Kiwi fruit, or also known as gooseberries, are originated from China, not New Zealand.


Guangzhou motor cab waiting for passengers. To think of it, I should have used their service back then for experience, and most of all, to save my poor feet. Anyway, I would have missed all the following scenes if I took the motor cab.


The walk towards the cathedral brought me many interesting scenes along the alleys. This particular banana vendor caught my eye and I was thinking, what if his bicycle fell..


Walking towards the cathedral brings me over to a few interesting streets, for example the wholesale street for garments, cloth, dried seafood, toys, herbs etc. The Chinese loves to gather together on the same street to do the same business (or maybe trying to replicate other people's success) until the whole street is filled with the same seller and competition then kicks in.


Workers weaving rolls and rolls of threads and ropes to be distributed out to factories and shops.



Colourful strings ready to be shipped at the side of the road.


They even have a whole freaking building for kids apparels. The economy of scale in China is just crazy.


Spotted an interesting stall selling something like popiah but I'm still darn full from my lunch, so will give this a skip.


They even have a whole freaking alley of carts and trolley. Not too sure this is for rent or just for store. Would have missed all these interesting scenes if I don't walk through these alleys.


Public lines up while waiting for bus. The image of Chinese being uncivilised further improves after more days spent in China. At least for this side of China, I suppose.


Opps, I think I'm at the wrong lane of the road. The right side is the toy street, filled with wholesale and distributors of toys. If I'm a trader or retailer, I would probably have a good walk here to look for any good bargains to be imported back to Malaysia.


"Have a break, have a chess game". Locals playing Chinese chess on the back of their "bicycle-trailer" for a break. And it is best not to interrupt a board game as it will be deemed as impolite to the players. You can observe, but keep your mouth shut.

After a few junctions and stops, I think I'm away from my original track. I memorized the map early in the morning before I came out but looks like I have deviated. My stupid China Mobile sim card ran out of quota after few days (come on, 500MB day time only where got enough one??). So I resort back to the good old ways of "asking road". I approached an officer at the road side and asked for the directions for the Stone Cathedral. He annoyingly pointed a direction and asked me go towards the end of the road.


Well, I decided to just go ahead and walk where ever I want. I then noticed a back alley which is busier than normal back alley so I just walk towards the crowd to see what I can find.


Apparently it's a shortcut between two main roads, hence explains the busy traffic. I spotted a very good frame of an old man sitting in front of his house door, selling snacks at the side wall. However, it is too close for me to compose a shot without alerting him. End up had to take a shot from the other end and the image is not as impactful as I intend to have.


I rerouted my route after spotting a landmark along the way, i.e. the Guangzhou 3rd Secondary School. Because the school is located right behind the cathedral, so it means I'm very near. After getting my directions right, I walk towards the main road and saw two bikes on fire!


Having a closer look, and it is just a mobile stall selling skewers. However, the fume and smoke generated is excessive, and also a turn off for me to even try. No one is manning the stall by the way, I wonder.


Chinese New Year is a still another a months plus ahead but decorations are already up for sale.


Finally I arrived at the Sacred Heart Stone Cathedral after close to 30 minutes walk and exploration. It was a simple cathedral with no fancy decorations or garden.

Read more in detail and history about the Sacred Heart Stone Cathedral in a separate post:
[PLACE] 20121223 Sacred Heart Cathedral 石室圣心主教座堂 @ Yuexiu, Guangzhou


The cathedral was known for it's design, which very much a replicate of those in Europe, Visitors are only allowed at the entrance as there was activity on going in the cathedral. Everyone showed respect and kept noise at minimum. I carefully changed my lens and my camera settings, to make sure my composition is perfect and took a single shot. The staff immediately tell me "no camera" and pointed towards the signboard of no camera. I apologised and walked off immediately. I guess this is to minimize interruption especially from the camera's flash. Lucky for me, my one and only shot paid off with good preparation.


I took another overview of the cathedral before leaving. The gloomy weather created a different atmosphere around the cathedral. The experience was rather unique to see such a cathedral within the heart of Guangzhou. The history of the cathedral is also very educational and can be referred via my separate post: [PLACE] 20121223 Sacred Heart Cathedral 石室圣心主教座堂 @ Yuexiu, Guangzhou


I took another route back this time, passing by the dried seafood and dry stock street, similar to the one in Hong Kong.


Various types of dry stock available here and I guess the housewives can spend a whole day here getting the best product.


Firing some random shots along the way. Look at the size of the dried prawn, and compare to our small little tiny shrimp, this one belongs to a different league.


Life is definitely hard for this man, having to load his whole cart and paddle his way through busy roads. Makes one feel that we must appreciate everyone's hard work for a living.

I head back to my hotel via bus to collect my luggage and time to say good bye to Guangzhou. It was a short yet memorable and reward-ful trip, There's so much more yet to be discovered and will definitely revisit this gorgeous city.


I took the Guangzhou metro for the first time after 3 days here and arrived at the Guangzhou South terminal to head to my next destination, i.e. ZhuHai.


The Guangzhou South Terminal Station for the metro line.


Carefully locate the signboard for Guangzhou-Zhuhai route. This freaking train terminal is huge and feels like I'm in an airport than a train terminal.


This is what I meant, and just a part of the terminal. This is not even the main Guangzhou terminal and just a south terminal.


The outdoor of the train terminal when I'm on my way to the ticketing counter, which is inconveniently located at the annexed of the terminal.


The waiting hall of the train terminal and it really feels like an airport now. I spent some time around to check out the stores and restaurants inside. Most of it are franchise stores as expected and the price is higher than outside, which is also as expected.


Boarding time and everyone rushed to the gate, most of them did line up but there's always some bad apples that tried to cut queue. I just need to scan the ticket for boarding, which is very convenient and the passage way leads us towards the train platform. This is just one of the platform of all gates, and I briefly counted there were more than 10 rail ways towards the south direction. 


I'm boarding the same type of bullet train this time and having the first experience from Shenzhen to Guangzhou few days back, I pretty look forward for this ride as it is further and uninterrupted.

There was a mini drama happened in the cabin where an African lady (surprisingly many Africans settle down in Guangzhou) sat on my seat. I double checked my ticket number and confirmed that it was my seat. Politely I asked whether she can excuse the seat and move to her own seat. She refused and said that she wanted to eat. I said "You can eat at your seat, and this is my seat, please". She seemed surprised that this "Chinese" boy seemed to be able to speak "Engrish". The small drama slowly drew the crowd's attention and heads popping up to check out what's happening. The African lady finally gave in and moved away from her, or rather, my seat and knocked me on the foot with her luggage.


The drama ended after she left and the train departs, the signboard ahead showing the route which says "Guangzhou South -> Zhuhai". I would imagine the difficulty for visitors who don't understand Chinese and the difficulty to find a local that understands English.


It's 7:43pm and the train is already travelling at 194km/h, the max operational speed for this route. Time to dooze off awhile before reaching my destination.


After about 45 minutes travelling in the high speed train, I arrived at ZhuHai terminal, with Macau just over the coast.


The ZhuHai terminal is less busy than all the other terminals I have been. The taxi stand is right outside the terminal, in a very chilly weather.

There was another drama while waiting for cab. A lady just walked to the front of the queue, tell the person in the front that she is in a hurry and then board the cab. While everyone was literally stunned by her action, the cab driver chased the woman out and ask her to respect the queue. Wow, this is something unexpected. If it is in Malaysia, probably the taxi driver would have drove off. The lady just walked away after being scolded by the cab driver.

I booked a hotel nearby, which is very new and having promotion for new members. I randomly applied a membership when was in Guangzhou and booked it. Despite being slightly more expensive than all my previous stay, it is reasonably priced for a Christmas season. Note: Check in 23rd, Check out 25th. Super peak period.


Starving from the long trip the whole day, I asked the hotel reception on any recommendations nearby. She briefly mentioned something which I was not able to locate after searching hi and low. I then decided to give up and head straight towards to GongBei immigration centre as there's a small mall before it. After surveying a few restaurants, I ended up a decent looking restaurant and ordered a plate of Char Siew ribs. It was just an ok meal but couldn't complain much at such condition. The price in Zhuhai is also slightly higher than Guangzhou, due to its proximity to Macau.


Took a short walk around the port plaza but there's nothing much to see here. The Christmas atmosphere is thicker as days come closer.


The GongBei Immigration Port, is the gateway towards Macau, or the gateway towards fortune for the locals. This is where I will be tomorrow morning.


By the way, they are also celebrating 15th years anniversary for Macau's return to China after long being under the Portuguese sovereignty.

Exhausted from the long distance walk in Guangzhou today, I head back to my nice hotel for a good hot rain shower bath and dooze off. Good nightssss..
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